July 1st- Woke up late. A little self indulgence, but the fact was I didn't have any need to hurry. My main task was to send off an e-mail to my family so they wouldn't have to worry about my safety. Arriving in Manning Park at noon, I was shocked by all the cars, RVs, motorcycles, busses and people. As you may recall when I first passed this way it was 4:30 in the morning and as quiet as the grave. In addition, I'd seen only one other person in three and a half days. So, you must understand my amazement. As it turns out, it was Canada Day, a big national holiday, so, many people were taking the opportunity for a road trip, excursion or family outing. Everyone who visits Manning is charmed by the grey and gold ground squirrels which inhabit the burrows in the grassy areas surrounding the lodge and restaurant/general store. The air is filled with their warning cries if anyone/anything should get too close. Spoiled they are, as many tourists passing through will feed them any assortment of snackfoods at hand. E-mail sent, the only thing now is to figure out what to do.
July 2nd- Have set up residence at the PCT camp near Windy Joe. Waiting for a group to join. Total people seen today---Zero.
July 3rd- Went down this morning to Manning Park to check out trail conditions and try to get some info about what's happening via the PCTA website. Seems I'll definitely need an ice axe at some point. Before stepping into base camp, a day hiker told me he'd just passed a couple that was going to Mexico, shaking his head as if it were the most ridiculous thing he had ever heard. I managed to chase them down and exchange what I knew of the trail and the people who'd left before me. Steve and Kristen are a couple from Bend, Oregon who have hiked this section before. They'd have been happy to show me the way, but I lack the axe. Argh! What rotten luck.
July 4th- On the hunt (Goose Chase?) for an axe. The receptionist at Manning Lodge tells me that Hope has a sporting goods store, so I hop on the bus and head west. Small problem--- no Canadian money and it's Sunday. Banks all closed. Pay for my ticket in American greenbacks with the station attendant all the while grousing about how this is such an inconvenience for him. Can't blame him---he's also the laundry mat attendant in the same building. Go to the sport shop and the teenage girl they've hired as a shopkeeper stares at me when I say "ice axe" like she'd never ever heard those words before. Tourist information says the next best shot is down the road in Chilliwack. Time to hitch. Three hundred and sixty-nine cars later, Scott finally stops to offer a ride 'cause his father was a bit of a backpacking adventurer and I seem to fit the same mould. Scott was going to his father's funeral in Victoria. After checking out some sports stores in town. Guess what. No ice axes! My last best chance had been the Vedder Mountain Field Supply at the edge of town following a very long walk. Shop assistant said I need to go to Valhalla in Abbotsford. Tired, discouraged and looking for a possible camp for the night, I took a turn off to the Chilliwack River. Met a lady there who showed me a family of Canadian geese and three fluffy goslings and, much to my surprise, "Bob", the beaver. He was eating the leaves from a young sapling and doing his best to continue building his home in an off branch of the river. Nice to sit and watch nature and revive my spirits. Walked back to the town center and settled in for the night under a truck carriage at the large truck stop by the highway, an idling semi sending me into a profound sleep.
July 5th- Tried my luck at hitching to Abbotsford but only managed to stand for an hour in the early morning drizzle. At 8 the Canada Trust opened and the exchange teller most graciously placed in my hand Canadian currency. Whoopee! Ha Ha. Now to the bus station. Caught the bus to Abbotsford and found Valhalla easily enough. Happy to report that I have an ice axe AND a reliable compass. Resupplied at WalMart in town then spent the day reading and snoozing at the bus station waiting for the late bus to Manning Park.
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