September 17th End of Lyell Canyon to Upper Crater Meadow

Another first today, which occurred at 8:30 this morning when I crested Donahue Pass. It's the first time over 11,000 feet on the Pacific Crest and it's the first of seven passes of 11,000 feet or more that I'll have to get over if I want to reach Kennedy Meadows. Taking advantage of the time and the views, I sat down on some rocks at the very top and enjoyed a well-earned breakfast. As you can see in the photo, at this height gloves and balaclava required. Brrrr! My next snacking spot was at Island Pass, which does not count as one of the big seven because it's only 10,207 feet. What a shorty! Despite being vertically challenged, the Sierras seen from here are awe-inspiring. Talk about a Great Wall, nature can dwarf anything that man can build. Thousand Island Lake, looking like the big sister of Aloha Lake in Desolation Wilderness, filling up the hard rock basin below. The remaining snow and ice fields on the upper reaches of the peak giving a glimpse into the forces that carved out this masterpiece ages ago. At the far end of the lake, I had to make a difficult choice between the PCT or the John Muir Trail alternate route. After weighing the decision carefully, I chose the PCT, mostly out of some notion of being a purist. Now that I know what the PCT entailed, I wish I'd taken the alternate, which, despite it's elevation gain, would have been far more scenic. The Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River seemed to divide the area into two different worlds. On the John Muir side, it's a land of lakes, trees and granite massifs. The PCT side, on the other hand, was an exposed walk on the side slope of a ridge that, except for some flowing springs, was much drier than the JMT. As I kept looking across to the other side of the canyon, I wondered how such a stark contrast was possible. I was happy when the two trails joined again in Devil's Postpile National Monument because I could stop thinking about such questions and cease being envious of those who had chosen the JMT. Devil's Postpile is a place I hadn't been to since I was a kid, so it was great to see it again and reacquaint myself with childhood memories. Near Reds Meadow, I took an unexpected detour to Rainbow Falls. OK, I was on the wrong trail and just happened to be rewarded on my errant way with one of the prettiest sights today. Tumbling over a layer of basalt rock, the river plunges into a deep pool, throwing up mist that is complete with a rainbow. Had a nice time of it there, relaxing, eating, and examining my maps so I could hook back up with the PCT. I didn't feel too badly about being off trail this time as there are numerous pack trails and side trails, plus I didn't wander far. When I did rejoin the PCT, the trail led through the first fire damaged area I'd been through in a while. This one had burned some really big trees judging by the size of some fire-blackened trunks. The good news (especially for the bears) is that the berry bushes are full of ripe fruit. With so much natural plenty, I doubt they'll be raiding my tent for Spam and peanuts. A second night spent near a footbridge, this time a mile or so past the Mammoth Lakes junction in an area of what appear to be cindercones.

Donahue Pass

Thousand Island Lake

Rainbow Falls

30 Miles