September 20th Evolution Meadow to Palisade Creek

Shoving on damp, half-frozen shoes on an already chilly morning is a singularly unpleasant experience. The walk down Evolution Valley stayed rather cool until the rising sun finally breached the height of the canyon walls dispersing the shadow below. The climb to Evolution Basin, gaining 1,000 feet in two miles, was much harder than topping Muir Pass, which required another 1,000 feet in elevation gain, but spread it over the next five and a half miles. In fact, Muir Pass was reached by climbing up four gentle tiers, each of which contained its own alpine lake. Evolution Lake, Sapphire Lake, a lake unnamed on my maps, and then Wanda Lake and Lake McDermand. An altogether glorious stroll! When I reached the high point at the pass, I met two equestrians who were doing a large section of the PCT on horseback. They were having lunch in the stone hut that was built here honoring John Muir. While I was talking with them, I mentioned doing thirty mile days, which surprised them because they informed me that they never took their horses that far in one day. Am I actually travelling farther and faster than people on horses? It just doesn't seem right. Anyway, Muir Pass at 11,976 feet is the second of the seven passes. Five more to go. Looking down the other side of the pass was like looking into a desolate wasteland. No vegetation at all, just a land of broken rock and talussed slopes pock marked with a few tarns. Yet, following the winding path, this is where the trail led in a sharp descent. As I hiked lower, rapidly losing elevation, the canyon walls grew ever higher. Indeed, I had reached Kings Canyon National Park and its regal nature. Following the course of the Middle Fork of the Kings River into Le Conte Canyon, I passed through Big Pete Meadow, Little Pete Meadow, and Grouse Meadow, all of which, despite the mid-day sun, seemed to hold pockets of cold air held over from the morning hours. I saw more than a few deer standing in the tall grasses near the riverbank, quite comfortable in their habitat. A bit of haze created by the Cedar Grove Fire became more noticeable the further I walked, but in the late afternoon the trail veered to the left, taking an eastward track along Palisade Creek. Again, a gentle path climbing slowly up the canyon until a very steep ascent towards the outlet at Palisade Lakes. This was an even steeper ascent than the one to Evolution Basin, gaining about 1,400 feet in a little over two miles. I didn't quite get to the lakes before nightfall. I had to settle for a camp on some fine gravel, hemmed in by a small stand of trees and a rock shelf. Calves no longer burning, breath no longer rushed and heartbeat back to normal, I devoured the evening meal of tuna and tortillas.

At Muir Pass

John Muir Hut

Kings Canyon National Park

29 Miles